After Type Shift Tower...

[CSCameron]

I'm trying to rehab my shift tower and need to know how to get the shift lever out of the housing? There is a big spring holding it in, how does that come out? Just checking before applying brute force. :) I don't want to damage anything.

Thanks!

[Frank Irons]

Not sure which trans you have but on most transmissions you push down on the spring retainer from the leverside, turn and release, and the lever, spring and retainer come out.

Frank

[CSCameron]

Thanks Frank for the response.

I have a 1955 "after-type" transmission (crash-box) in my one ton FFPW. I will give your instructions a try and see what happens.

Clark

[Frank Irons]

After looking at your photos more closely I think the info I gave you is wrong. That shifter will not pop out the top without taking out the cross bolt that shows in the photos. Later transmissions allow you to remove the lever from the top.

Frank

[CSCameron]

Yep, won't come out the top, has to drop through the case. Just have to figure out how to get the spring out. The tabs holding it in are cast into the housing.

From what I understand the "pin" in the top stops the lever from rotating and does not come out?

[Cheyenne Dave]

The spring is removed from the bottom side by literally unscrewing it and rocking it around those cast tabs. I use a couple of the small needle-nose vise-grip locking pliers. Removing the side access plug, located in the side of the shift tower, will allow removal/installation if the spring-loaded thrust bolt and thus easier removal/installation of the main spring.

The ball alignment pin arrangement will become more event with the shift lever removed. You can see one end of it from the outside of the tower. You will likely find wear damage to the machined groove in the shift lever ball. This damage needs repaired if you want nice, clean, reliable shifts.

cd

[CSCameron]

How timely! I just posted another plea over on the Power Wagon site. Thanks so much for chiming in here. I see the hook on the end of the spring. I guess I can latch onto that with vise grips and try turning it as you suggested. Maybe a little grease wouldn't hurt. I've not had much luck removing the thrust bolt either. I'll give that another go.

Thanks,
Clark

http://s16.photobucket.com/user/myfr...mission?sort=3

[Cheyenne Dave]

The thrust bolt, and everything else looks pretty rusty. I would bathe the entire area with PB Blaster, or your favorite penetrating oil cocktail, thoroughly before going any further.

Avoid the use of heat as this will likely cause collateral damage to the springs. Use wrenches that fit well....

cd

[CSCameron]

Thanks CD! I got the thrust bolt out without a problem. The main spring is tough, doesn't want to cooperate. I'm soaking it now.

Any tricks for taking the thrust bolt apart?

[Cheyenne Dave]

Isn't there a pinch-type "C"-clip on the end opposite the thrust spring? I'd need to double check, but if that is the case, carefully open/remove the clip and the whole assembly should come apart. A good soaking in solvent overnite works wonders.

cd

[CSCameron]

Yes there is. After cleanup, seems really tight. I can rotate the spring in the bolt with pliers, but compressing it is hard to do. I would need to compress it to relieve tension on the c-clip in order to remove it. Should it be that hard to compress?

[Cheyenne Dave]

Yes, they have a fair amount of tension. Part of the tension you feel could be rust binding things up. The only reason to take this assembly all the way apart would be for a thorough cleaning, or to replace a broken spring.

There are a couple ways to safely complete the disassembly involving a press or a good square-jawed vise.

You would need a tool, a cylinder, such as 1/4"-drive socket, sized to fit over the clip end of the spring retainer but not the clip. By placing this tool over the clip you can put the assembly in a vise or press and compress it enough to allow you to pry open the clip. Then slow decompress the assembly until you have removed all spring tension.

As they like to say in the Chilton manuals, assembly is the reverse of disassembly...

I assume you will also be going through the entire shift tower/transmission cover. Be sure completely disassemble and clean all the shift rails, passages and replace any missing shift rail-galley plugs. Don't lose any of the detent balls in the process!

cd

[Doc Dave]

This is a picture of what I was talking about on Joe's site relative to the "slot".
If this area is worn it will result in sloppy shifting, if not repaired.

[CSCameron]

Yes, they have a fair amount of tension. Part of the tension you feel could be rust binding things up. The only reason to take this assembly all the way apart would be for a thorough cleaning, or to replace a broken spring.

There are a couple ways to safely complete the disassembly involving a press or a good square-jawed vise.

You would need a tool, a cylinder, such as 1/4"-drive socket, sized to fit over the clip end of the spring retainer but not the clip. By placing this tool over the clip you can put the assembly in a vise or press and compress it enough to allow you to pry open the clip. Then slow decompress the assembly until you have removed all spring tension.

As they like to say in the Chilton manuals, assembly is the reverse of disassembly...

I assume you will also be going through the entire shift tower/transmission cover. Be sure completely disassemble and clean all the shift rails, passages and replace any missing shift rail-galley plugs. Don't lose any of the detent balls in the process!

cd

Excellent! Thanks for the explanation and info. I have some pretty good pitting on the shift rails. They cleaned up pretty good but the pitting remains. Should I just replace these (assuming new ones can be had)? Also, I recovered three balls, three springs, and only two oblong (detents)? Is this correct, am I missing anything?

[CSCameron]

forgot to say there was a "cap" piece also recovered. You can see it next to the springs in the pics. Do I have the correct pieces?