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Axle tube vents?

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  • #16
    Do you modify the vent cap to enable you to slide a hose over it (to plumb the vent opening higher)?
    Not sure how the tubing is attached- could you guys explain? Thanks.

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    • #17
      I popped the little cap off mine and the tube is only like 1/4" or so. Not long enough to hold a hose with a clamp I'm afraid.

      Will need to braze a tube to it or tap in a barb fitting or something. Maybe even JB Weld an extension. Something long enough to hold the hose with a clamp.
      1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
      1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
      1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
      2005 Jeep KJ CRD

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      • #18
        thanks,
        I know that some then route the tube up high and put a "filter" on the end, like a paper fuel filter or small air filter. Around here, if I did not do that the mud dauber wasps would clog it up in no time!

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        • #19
          Yea those daubers are bad around here too. They'll fill in any little hole. Probably even that fuel filter inlet...

          But I guess thats a good problem to have. They're catching other bugs and socking them away in those tiny mud prisons.
          1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
          1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
          1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
          2005 Jeep KJ CRD

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          • #20
            My solution

            So I pryed the little cap off. A piece of 3/16" brake line fit in there perfect with the flare inside the hollow bolt. I JB welded the thing in place with about 3" of tube sticking up. I'll slip some hose over that and run it up to the bed.
            1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
            1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
            1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
            2005 Jeep KJ CRD

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            • #21
              [IMG][/IMG]

              Here is the setup on my '85 1 ton. I finally got the pics to load.

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              • #22
                Yea thats what I've done. I haven't terminated the hose yet. May even run it on up to the bottom of the flat bed - why that high I dunno, because I can I guess? Thanks for the picture!
                1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
                1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
                1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
                2005 Jeep KJ CRD

                Comment


                • #23
                  If you plan to run in any water or stream crossings you are better off to run it outboard and up into the top of the fender well. You will be able to get it nearly two feet higher than shown in that photo, which is inadequate for some uses.
                  You may think that you will never need to place it higher, but it only takes one time to ruin a differential.

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                  • #24
                    bring this thread up again

                    I know these are designed to be check valves. I had one off and it would allow air in when the cap was "up", but when depressed down like with water over it it closes off.
                    Is the problem that they do not always work properly, and so when going in wather one needs to extend them up?
                    So, is the consensus to use a piece of 3/16 brake line in them and then rubber hose up to a high point, like what was done by KR?

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Doc Dave View Post
                      I know these are designed to be check valves. I had one off and it would allow air in when the cap was "up", but when depressed down like with water over it it closes off.
                      Is the problem that they do not always work properly, and so when going in wather one needs to extend them up?
                      So, is the consensus to use a piece of 3/16 brake line in them and then rubber hose up to a high point, like what was done by KR?
                      I use rubber hose all the way and tie it back so it looks neat.
                      You have a lot of axle travel, off road, so you want to leave enough slack to prevent ripping the line off at the axle and I'm not sure that can be done with brake line, unless you go with braided stainless. Nice looking but expensive.. = )

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                      • #26
                        Norm,
                        Do you remove the little cap first and run rubber hose to the short stub under the cap, or do you run rubber hose over the cap and secure? Or, in other words, the plumbing for the hose at the fitting on the axle?

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                        • #27
                          I extend the hose and relocate the cap higher. The cap is still at the end of the line.
                          Right at the top of the hood up front, at the highest point inside my fenders at the rear.

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                          • #28
                            The cap will help keep mud daubers & stuff out too.
                            1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
                            1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
                            1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
                            2005 Jeep KJ CRD

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              I wonder if I should get a modern stub to use at the axle, then use the original ones with the cap at the end of the hose. Does anyone know the part number for a modern axle vent that fits? They have oem items on ebay but are asking over $20 a copy.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Doc Dave View Post
                                I wonder if I should get a modern stub to use at the axle, then use the original ones with the cap at the end of the hose. Does anyone know the part number for a modern axle vent that fits? They have oem items on ebay but are asking over $20 a copy.
                                I usually just get a barbed brass coupling, pull the plug, insert the coupling and run a new piece of hose with the old vent cap, to a new location.
                                Unless the vent tube fitting at the axle is leaking oil, I won't mess with it there.
                                Now, if your axle only has the vent cap, at the axle tube and no vent line, then you have to do as you mentioned. Just get that area very clean first so that you don't get any dirt into the housing when you pull the fitting out.
                                Do you have a parts number book for that year axle? Or do you know the year and model axle?

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