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Service & Repair Procedures includes body/frame repair & painting Useful technical content, information or questions applicable to many or all of our truck models; mechanical, electrical, body & paint, tire, restoration, whatever...

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Old 03-21-2014, 09:09 PM   #1
Frozen Parts
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Interior Alaska
Posts: 23
Copper Nickle Brake Line

I have been using this stuff to make lines for my '53 FFPW. Great stuff. No need for a bender. You can form it with your hands. The usual care is needed to avoid kinks, but it doesn't seem to be much of an issue. I got mine at Amazon.
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Old 02-09-2018, 04:49 AM   #2
El Muerto
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Qualicum, BC
Posts: 35
A friend of mine likes the copper alloy line for his datsun 510's.. i have concerns about fatigue resitance in high vibration applications. Especially in a single line system.
Make sure your lines are well supported with rubber covered eyelets. Every 20" or so.
Be safe.
Corey Myronuk

1953 M43
1955 M37
1944 WC62
1943 WC53
1942 CMPF60S
1957 D300 street rod
1941 Plymouth special deluxe businessmans coupe
1949 federal CF-55-AF
1957 Chevrolet 1600 5ton Napco clone (ask me)
1967 Dodge CT800
1974 Dodge CT800
60's Euclid R13 custom 4x4
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Old 02-09-2018, 09:42 AM   #3
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Location: Pismo Beach, Cal.
Posts: 141
It feels a little flimsy to me but maybe OK
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Old 02-09-2018, 11:01 AM   #4
Matthew Welcher PWA
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Fairfield Iowa
Posts: 581
Several years ago they came out with the Poly Armour brake lines, most of them are green in color, I have been using them for quite some time. They seem to hold up well and are very easy to bend by hand. I normally pick them up from NAPA.
1967 W200
1946 WDX
Life is easier in a lower gear.
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Old 02-12-2018, 10:00 AM   #5
Greg Coffin
Subscriber Since 1987
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Longmont, Colorado
Posts: 255
I use the Poly Armour lines too and I like them. My brake lines are all armored steel, but I made my vacuum lines out of Poly Armour and they bent up real nice. Easy to get at the local NAPA store.
Greg Coffin
Unrepentant Dodge Enthusiast

1951 Dodge M37 - Bone Stock
1958 Dodge M37 - Ex-Forest Service Brush Truck
1962 M37-B1 - Work in Progress
1962 Dodge WM300 Power Wagon - Factory 251, 4.89s
1944/1957 Dodge WM500 6x6 Power Wagon - LA318-3, NP435, 5.83s, Power Steering, Undercab Power Brakes
1974 Dodge W200 - 360/727, Factory Sno-Fighter Package
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Old 02-12-2018, 04:25 PM   #6
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Chesapeake, Va
Posts: 824
I'm using the CuNi lines on mine, in the 1/4" flavor though. Figured a little more diameter but with the same wall thickness, it would become a little more rigid. I don't mind it and actually its easy to work with and even has spoiled me. I flared a 3/16" steel line for a co-workers race car the other day, and did it by hand with a flare tool that I had been using for my 1/4" CuNi before getting my hydraulic flare tool, and man, it made me remember quickly how much harder the steel lines are.

My truck is going to see a good bit of beach time, and its already heavy salt air where I live, so I am thinking corrosion is going to be a big concern for me vs fatigue. <--- thats me jinxing myself. Callin it here.
1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.
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