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Service & Repair Procedures includes body/frame repair & painting Useful technical content, information or questions applicable to many or all of our truck models; mechanical, electrical, body & paint, tire, restoration, whatever...

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Old 01-26-2014, 10:15 PM   #91
Charles Talbert
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Norwood, N.C.
Posts: 2,639
Adding that much shim to get correct end play is not unusual at all; it is designed that way. The more you talk, the more it sounds like there is no real issue. I think a double check to ease your mind is in order, but I don't really expect a bad report.
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Old 07-04-2015, 11:45 AM   #92
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Location: Cave Creek, AZ
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I know this is an old thread, but I just finished reading all it because I am beginning my MU2 rebuild... excellent! This will be an invaluable resource. MaineSS, Thanks for taking the time to document the process.

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Old 04-03-2017, 01:53 AM   #93
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Location: San Diego County
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Originally Posted by maineSS View Post
There are a couple of trouble spots in reconditioning the worm shaft bearings. The first is removing the bearing races from the retainers, and the second is setting the proper bearing preload.
Pic #29 shows the retainer in a vice prior to removing the bearing seal. The seal is easily removed and replaced with a suitable dia rod and a few hammer taps. The bearing race is quite difficult to remove by forcible methods, as access to the backside is very limited (pic #30). I initially tried freezing the race with a special cold spray, but it still required a lot of hammering with a mini-sledge on my mini cats-paw. You need to have the retainer held in a 6" or larger vice with the cats-paw alongside the lower half of the vice (pic #31). Hit the top of the cats-paw with a drift, and move around the race at 180 deg intervals. If you have access to welding equipment, the next post will show you a MUCH easier way....
My neighbor came up with a clever way to remove the bearings for my winch. He made a split flanged tool which was installed flange end in from the bearing side. The thin flange fits on the back side of the bearing race. Once installed, the tool is spread so the flange goes behind the race. Then flip it over and press out from behind.
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Old 04-06-2017, 10:38 AM   #94
Matthew Welcher PWA
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Fairfield Iowa
Posts: 502
That removal tool is a very nice set up!
1967 W200
1946 WDX
Life is easier in a lower gear.
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