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Modern Machinery...for me

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  • #16
    I think the most important thing to do with the auto trans is to change the fluid regularly. A trans guy told me the overdrive units really beat up the fluid. He recommended changes every 25,000. I would do it sooner if I towed frequently. Good luck with the truck.

    Joe

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    • #17
      The truck just came back from a week long 1000 mile trip around and across PA(my son was just elected State FFA officer).The long trips and couple tankfulls with Stanadyne diesel additive really cleaned it out(it had sat for nearly a year),runs much better now.I'm thinking KDP fix,change over to synthetic oil and trans fluid and filter change.What trans fluid should I go with?Is there something significantly better?I run the 90's 5 speed(the ever tempermental Getrag 360)a quart heavy of synthetic and it seems to help.

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      • #18
        I don't have the "modern" machinery, put I do have the predecessor.

        When I got mine with 92K I drained the 518 and filled with amsoil which was the only automatic transmission fluid at the time that I could find in synthetic. I also added a cooler under the bed. I watch my tranny temps and when they approach 225* or I anticipate a big/long hill etc I'll drop it out of overdrive when hauling. I'm up to 170K now with regular loads but not overloaded by any means. But then again, this is old school and may not apply.

        BTW - Congrats on the state FFA officer! What an honor (and work)!
        1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
        1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
        1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
        2005 Jeep KJ CRD

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        • #19
          Originally posted by KRB64 View Post
          I don't have the "modern" machinery, put I do have the predecessor.

          When I got mine with 92K I drained the 518 and filled with amsoil which was the only automatic transmission fluid at the time that I could find in synthetic. I also added a cooler under the bed. I watch my tranny temps and when they approach 225* or I anticipate a big/long hill etc I'll drop it out of overdrive when hauling. I'm up to 170K now with regular loads but not overloaded by any means. But then again, this is old school and may not apply.

          BTW - Congrats on the state FFA officer! What an honor (and work)!
          Thank you,but he's the one that did it,I just watched with satisfaction(I really try to avoid pride).I don't know about synthetic in the 47RE.I've already got the Amsoil for the engine when it touches down long enough to change.And the temp/boost/EGT gauge cluster will be on soon.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by The Other Ross View Post
            I broke down yesterday and bought a '98 12 valve,quad cab, 3500 4x4 with duals.Real nice one owner 89,000 miles(not even broke in)recent rebuild on the automatic trans.What do I need to watch for and what kind of prevention can I do.I've already arranged to have Bilstiens put on the front and all the front bushings swapped out with new Polyurethane bushings to avoid front end woes these are known for.
            The bushing replacement is a good thing, but really has no impact on "the death wobble". The cause of that special condition is usually found to be the track bar. Rebuilding yours with the Luke's Link is the cure, and it is adjustable.

            http://www.lukeslink.com/

            C.D.
            1949 B-1 PW (Gus)
            1955 C-3 PW (Woodrow)
            2001 Dodge 2500 (Dish...formerly Maney's Mopar)
            1978 Suzuki GS1000EC (fulfills the need...the need for speed)
            1954 Ford 860 tractor
            1966 Chrysler LS 16 sailboat (as yet un-named)
            UVA UVAM VIVENDO VARIA FITS

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            • #21
              Well upon further review my Cummins guru says the front end is tight and maybe just the Bilsteins.No death wobble....yet.

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              • #22
                The killer dowel pin is only part of thr fix, the other part is the three case bolts that can fall out also, they need loctite. Also important is a fuel pressure guage the lift pump needs to be upgraded, as low fuel pressure can cause the injector pump to fail, that is 1800 dollars rebuilt. Also look to see if you have a #53 block which have a tendency to crack. These things and more are in the TDR Buyers Guide you can get a copy at The Turbo Diesel Register Web site.Rich Szklany

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