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52 Power wagon restoration/ restomod

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  • #16




    Also picked up a 4bt for it, believe it was rebuilt at one point seeing as how it is black. Need to jump on 4btswaps and see if the gurus can help me figure out what it is seeing as how all the data plates are missing.

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    • #17
      Windshield frame is pretty rough dreading doing this as its so thin and relatively critical to the seal of the window.





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      • #18
        Sorry for the choppiness of my posts only being able to post 3 pictures is kind of a pain for a person that relys on pictures and not words to communicate. To update further some things have changed but not too much with the build, I think I am going to go with a divorced transfer case instead of the 241 seeing as how if i want to keep the winch I will most likely need a passenger drop. Also I decided to completely strip off the old paint and do the body work now versus doing it at a later date.

        Does anyone know where this goes it was in the glove box with some other misc things looks like it goes to the truck but haven't a faintest idea where it too. As far as i can tell its not to either door vent window.



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        • #19
          I agree it looks like a vent window latch but it's different from the ones I have. Here is a pic of a NOS assembly.





          As far as the windshield frame goes, Here is how I repaired one in about the same condition.

          http://www.dodgepowerwagon.com/glove...ame_repair.php

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          • #20
            Thanks Kevin. I've seen your process on it before very nice rite up btw, I will most likely be following it here soon.

            Update on where I am:

            This was a few months ago when I was figuring how everything went back together and checking fitment on everything.



            Here are more up to date pictures with the engine in mocking up the inter-cooler and measuring for a radiator. With the dodge nv4500 and adapter it outs the starter on the drivers side which will interfere with the factory box. I have a power steering box for the 4bt I was planning on eventually going to power steering. Just much sooner than I was planning on. Does anyone have any ideas or advice? At the moment i am planning on using a gm universal column and a gm box out of a 80s or 90s chevy truck. Although it look s like most of the truck steering boxes from that era are extremely similar.







            Is there anyway of editing my posts so its just not the dead phobucket links, that have killed the internet?

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            • #21
              Be mindful to watch the rotation of the box you pick and inside frame or outside of frame too. The saginaw style is what most use but I have also seen people use the tall Bronco boxes and one guy even used a Toyota box. I am using an AGR reverse rotation full size '84 Chevy Truck box on my setup with cross over steering up front. It was designed for the Jeep guys that stretch the front axle forward. The saginaw boxes have varying size displacement too and lock to lock limits. I think one of the most powerful and high rotation boxes out there now are the late '90s early 2000s Durango boxes.
              1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by laddy View Post
                Is there anyway of editing my posts so its just not the dead PhotoBucket links, that have killed the internet?
                Is your Photo Bucket Account still Active? There were some Add-On's for FireFox and Chrome that would let the the photos still show up in forums, but either PhotoBucket might have started blocking that if your account is still active.

                If you would like I can go back and edit them to remove the dead picture links.
                I drive a DODGE, not a ram!

                Thanks,
                Will
                WAWII.com

                1946 WDX Power Wagon - "Missouri Mule"
                1953 M37 - "Frankenstein"
                1993 Jeep YJ - "Will Power"
                1984 Dodge Ramcharger - "2014 Ramcharger"
                2006 3500 DRW 4WD Mega Cab - "Power Wagon Hauler"

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                • #23
                  I've been bad keeping up n this. I'll try and bring it up to date.



                  I decided to bite the bullet and swap in a dana 60 instead of trying to figure out the steering only to have to redesign it to make it work with a 60 later. This was after plumbing the brakes and redoing them on the original axle, however I digress. I have been stupid busy here lately but was able to pick up a 84 Chevy Dana 60.





                  The bolts were pretty well shot I ended up having to hammer on a 11/16 socket and then welding a bolt onto said nut to get the bolt out of the socket. I ended up getting the opposite spindle off that was pretty seized by beating on it with a dead blow after heating the knuckle.







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                  • #24
                    To give you an idea how rusty this mofo is.



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                    • #25
                      So Last night I welded nuts onto the studs, 50% success. Two broke and two twisted off not really surprised seems that 50% success is par for the course on this axle.



                      I drilled the studs out for easy outs and proceeded to heat and apply penetrating oil for a few hours but those suckers were not moving at all. I felt as if I was going to snap the easy out so I called it a night and let it soak.



                      Got up this morning tried again with the easy out and heating, didn't seem to be getting anywhere. So I said screw it and got the torch and heated it until I could see the grease catching on fire. Then proceeded to get a bfh and beat the crap out of the cap. That got me the crack that I needed to work a screwdriver in and walk the cap off.



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                      • #26
                        Then it was onto the bottoms they weren't that bad...... I used a Air hammer to create the gap then a screw driver to walk/pry the caps off. Looking at the caps on the ball bearings they should be fine right...



                        Hit the bearings out yep pretty much as expected. Drivers side followed by passenger side, neither are pretty.



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                        • #27
                          I've been doing a lot of sheet metal work/ sandblasting on the fenders. Also mocked up steering and the pedals, these old trucks are much smaller than newer trucks.



                          The radiator is "installed", however I had the bracket welded on backwards so that has to be cut off and re-welded.


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                          • #28
                            I put in a aam 10.5, I got it from a guy that had "pulled" it. I show up and it's still in the truck and the guy has no tools except a ratchet set the sun is going down and its starting to snow. After telling me he didn't need any tools..... so I didn't bring any of my cordless stuff. Could have had it off in 5 min with a grinder, which he didn't have.... Anyway we finally get it out and his plan is to stack 3 tires under a jack and then lift via the hitch, not receiver the hitch.... sketchy is an understatement. This is all happening in the dark in mud/gravel on the side of a hill while its snowing, I was not amused.

                            Here it is installed, I'm running 37/12.5 17 Ironman m/ts they were cheap and I wanted to make sure that I like the 37's with 4.10s and the nv4500/ 4bt. I have another pair getting here on Wednesday and another set of rims so once I get the front "rebuilt" I'll put it together to see what wms I need on the 60.



                            Picked up a set of locking hubs off Amazon for cheap, 100 beans, in "good condition" with some scuffs. Well one was mint the other I'm pretty sure was used/broken and then returned. You can see oxidization on the inside and it doesn't turn from "locked".



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                            • #29
                              So I've been blasting grungy parts and ordering every seal and bearing for this darn axle. Stepping over a dollar to save a dime but I digress. After blasting these are the only 2 parts, the lower bearing plate/pivots, that look rough.



                              The bearing in the top one was hashed, literally in pieces and the surface is pretty rough. Is this okay with inside of the bearing race riding on the rough surface. I searched on the google but couldn't find much. Got the tires mounted today, the guys seemed very disappointed I did not show up in the power wagon. Thanks for 20% off fleebay.

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                              • #30
                                Got some stuff done on Friday as well as today however not as much as I would have liked. Got the king pins out, worked on them on Friday a bit as well as pounded out the races. Ups was being a pain though and the Allen key that was supposed to get here Friday didn't get delivered till today. I tried with my big ole pipe wrench nut but it kept slipping off the cone.





                                Worked a treat after cutting the bottom/ heating and a ton of penetrating oil. I also got the studs out of the knuckle. The studs are just over a half inch(.52 and of course I have half inch and 5/8 but not much in-between. I just used an half inch and wallered out the hole till it fit. I used a plate over the stud and then a nut on top of the plate to try and protect the mating surface. Yes the welds look like bird poo but I was battling a terrible ground and contamination from the gallon of atf that it had been Bathing in, it worked out in the end.







                                I'm hoping to have the axle mocked in by the end of the week so I can figure out back spacing on the hubs and if I need to get them machined or just blasted and press in new studs.

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