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How I Got Started & Why I Like Dodges Tell us how you got interested in old Dodges and why you like them,
or some sort of explanation for your disease...

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Old 10-15-2011, 01:31 PM   #1
MrMarty51
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Where to Start,New Here

I originally purchased this 59 W100 in about 1984,bought out of a ranch north of Plevna Mt;had to do A LOT of work on it before I could even move it off the place.I got it moved into town at My exFILs property and then continued the work.
a week later I returned with the rebuilt brake and master and slave cylinders,installed them and drove it home.I had to stop every ten or twenty miles to make sure the nuts on the left steering ball werent coming loose and lose the link from the steering gear box.The box had a real nice "Omaha" stock rack,the ranchers used it to transport livestock and the box was trampled to death,even still has a dent in the forward top of the fuel tank.LOLI stripped the box off and built this flatbed,mounted a 6000 pound winch behind the cab and then a set of "Gin Poles"so I could go around a pickup junk with it.LOL
I drove this pickup until about 1993 and then the younges boychild needed a lot of dental work so I greviousely sold the Power Wagon to a friend,he drove it for a couple of years and then a rod started knocking so He parked it and it sat until July the First.
My eldest Boy child comes to the house one morning and sayd "Dad I bought a pickup,We`ll need the trailer to bring it home",I hooked to the trailer and then had to ask,where it is, and He said out towards Kinsey and away We went,We got to Kinsey where My friend lives and here sets the Power Wagon,My Son says "Happy Burfday Dad",Oh My,I got some tears in Mine eyes and did`nt know what to say,Finally a "Thank You Son" and We loaded it up and hauled it home.
Well,I had several things going on in the garage so I got them doen then started organizing and cleaning and finally I could`nt do anymore so in comes the Power Wagon,I removed the transmission/engine and have it all tore down,boiled and ready for reasembley,except the crank and rods,I had to send those to Billings to get the machine work done.
The numbers stamped into the front of the block is TMP 8 and I do`nt know what those mean but today I got word from the machinist that the engine is actually a 315 and not a 318 as I had thought it was.
so this is My intro and my first question.
does anyone know what the TMP 8 stand for ????
And also,I did replace that left side steering ball with one from a 3/4 ton Ford as the ford unit has a much better bolt pattern.I had to cut the link between the steering box and the ball end and turn the shaft 180 on one end and weld it back together,it is holdin up just fine but I am still looking for a suitable link with replaceable ends for it but so far no luck on that.LOL
I am fairly good at the mechanicin this old stuff but I gets all cornfused when it comes to electronics.except the older style HEI Delco ignitions.
I even machined down a HEI distributor from a 455 Oldsmobile to fit in My 78 MGB.LOLOL woke them old dead sparking plugs right up.LOL



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Old 10-15-2011, 01:33 PM   #2
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I forgot to mention,with some DW40 on the door hinges and latches,them dooors close as smooth as butter.
Also there is absolutely no rustthrough on this old beast.
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Old 10-16-2011, 03:35 PM   #3
Ron in Indiana
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Fine looking truck and a good story behind it. You're a lucky man to have a son looking out for you. If you do in fact have a 315 vs a poly 318 then it was swapped at some point. The 318 was used in 59 for the first time. Nothing wrong with a 315 other than the exhaust manifolds are prone to cracking. They are very hard to find too. Some other parts are getting harder to find for the 315s as well. The 315 is a snappy little motor but the 318 poly has lots of low end torque. I have a 59 W200 with a 230 flathead and a 4 speed. My son and I just rebuilt his 59 W100 front Dana 44 this past winter. The original drag links are only available from Rare Parts in CA. Mine was $385 in 1998. You will probably have to search parts books or have a link made. Nothing against your welding skills but it's not the best to run down the road like that from a liability standpoint. I love to work on western trucks. I'm restoring a 58 W100 for a friend right now and it came from Wyoming. Little to no rust and the bolts come out with little problem. Join us at the Power Giant thread section on this forum. We'd like to follow along and offer help as needed. I like your stainless trim. Are looking at restoring or preserving your 59? Sorry I can't help on the engine number.
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Old 10-16-2011, 05:01 PM   #4
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Fun tickets are hard to come buy{Green Dollars}but I would like to start stripping the body/remove the differentials and sandblasting the frame and repaint that then sanding and bead blasting the cab/doors/fenders and painting them back to blue and white.
Some of the stainless is quite rough and dented/flattened but I think them stainless pieces would be a tough item to come by,there is one small piece that is`nt there but I havent tried finding one yet.
I removed the clutch master and slave,the slave is Ok but the master cyl for the clutch and the brakes is pitted real bad so I`ll be replacing those.I havent removed any of the wheel cylinders yet but I am in hopes they will be rebuildable.
I did find rebuilt masters for around thirty six dollars but it is a call to check inventory type of a thing,hoping.LOL
The homemade link has heldup through some very rough terrain without any problems but I will be checking that and I think I will weld two pieces of flat to it running length wise just for the just in case.
I`ll get into the "Power Giants" sometime soon.
Thank You for the welcome.
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Old 10-16-2011, 05:07 PM   #5
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I was at the steel recyclers several weeks ago,looked up at the pile and here is one of those Dual Matic hubs staring at Me,I then seen the differential,the hub I could see looked to be in excellent condition.
I talked to the guy managing the yard and asked if He could set that diff. doen for Me and I would come back and pick it up,YUP,and He called,said it was ready to load.
I got the diff. home,disasembled it,cleaned the parts and stowed them away.everything in there looked like it had all just been replaced so I got Me some spare parts n pieces for about fourty five dollars,after I took the diff. housing and whatever I did`nt want back to them.LOL
The steering knuckles are in great shape but the left side had the same problem as My old one did,cracked at the stud/bolt holes.LOL
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Old 10-16-2011, 05:18 PM   #6
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I hear you about the fun tickets. Every time I get ahead something hits the fan and away goes the fun. If I were you I'd replace the slave as well to avoid trouble down the road. And the wheel cylinders as well. I've tried to hone them but seldom does it work or worth the effort since they become pitted. Last I checked they were $18 for the rears the fronts are higher as they are sided. You are right about finding stainless trim. Careful work with a proper hammer and dolly along with lots of filing and sanding will save that trim. Eastwood is a good place for the things needed. But that can be down the road. I've done several restorations on 58-59 trucks so just ask if you get stuck. I see your headliner is drooping as usual. I've made a couple on past projects. A good shop can repop those for you since you have a pattern.
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Old 10-16-2011, 05:43 PM   #7
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You are right about those cylinders,I have found some for that eighteen bucks and a master for around thirtysix with a twenty dollar core.
Carquest here ordered in for Me two masters and four brake cylinders,$350.00,OUCH,I thought We were ordering in kits.LOLOL
They is going to be sending those back,NAPA was about ninety for a master and ORielleys was sixtyfive.I did`nt order from any of those but I will be getting the thirtysix rebuilt.LOL
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Old 10-16-2011, 08:04 PM   #8
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I got the front left braking cylinder off,the pisons was "Kind" of stuck,tapped them back with a brass drift and a hammer,did`nt take much,blew one piston out with the blow gun,tapped the other one out,brushed it out good with solvent and a wire brush,honed on it for about fourtyfive seconds,that baby`s good to go,now I pray the rest of um is in that good of condition.
The cups are in excellent condition too so if I can not get kits locally or if I have problems getting them online,well,A mans gotta do what a mans got to do.LOL
Might just buy new cylinders,put these up for spares tooo.
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Old 10-16-2011, 11:04 PM   #9
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Be aware from my experience that the hoses on these trucks will look good from the outside but can plug inside. I had one that I removed from the wheel cylinder and couldn't get brake fluid through with the pedal pushed down. Just thought you might want to check that too. Hose is $18-22 , the rear hose to the axle can do the same thing. I know it all adds up but it's better than being without brakes.
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Old 10-17-2011, 03:04 AM   #10
MrMarty51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in Indiana View Post
Be aware from my experience that the hoses on these trucks will look good from the outside but can plug inside. I had one that I removed from the wheel cylinder and couldn't get brake fluid through with the pedal pushed down. Just thought you might want to check that too. Hose is $18-22 , the rear hose to the axle can do the same thing. I know it all adds up but it's better than being without brakes.
LOL,YUP.
A friend {RIP Sleaze} rode a 45 flathead 45,wanted desperately to do a road trip over to Helena,only four hundred miles one way,and He just got His motorcicle together,welp,You guessed it,no brakes.We all took off onto our journey,sleaze too,His answer was,"Brakes is for beginners".
First traffic light in Helena.Turns red,we all stop,Sleaze is in the back of the pack.Now let Me tell You something about Sleaze,He wore them "Construction Boots" and always had them steel taps instilled on the toe and heels,Well Here comes Sleaze,dragging His boots,sparks a flying off them taps.A cop setting at the light,it`s like He cant believe His eyes,it is after dark and them sparks was real impressive.the cop looks over at His partner,looks at sleaze again,looks over at Us,shakes His head and drives off in the other direction.
We was a rolling with laughter,alls I can say is"There was never a dull moment when Sleaze was around.LOLOLOL
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Old 10-17-2011, 03:16 AM   #11
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OH YEAH,Hoses.LOLOLOL they do`nt even look good so I thinking they will go by the wayside and get me some new black shiney ones.LOL
I found this website that seems fairley reasonable on their kit prices.I think they are full of it on the placement of the hoses though,they be showing two for the rear.LOL
The master cylinders on Mine 59 has the big round caps/covers with the 5/16ths bolt through the center and that is shown as a 60 so the 60 is what I`ll be going by on braking components.
I forgot,after I sold the Power Wagon to Mine friend,He knocked the rods out of the engine,instead of repairing that engine He goes and gets another engine from a truck,so He saaid it was a truck so that is where the 315 come from
I hope the heads/block is the same,I might want to bore it out sometime,turn down mains and internally balance up a 360 crank and build Me aa bit of a strocker.I asked Him and NO He no longer had that 318 around.I do need a right side exhaust manifold but the one that is on there will work for now.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...10151_10051_-1___
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Old 10-17-2011, 07:46 AM   #12
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The master cylinder will be the same for a 59 -60 since it's basically the same truck. A 315 will NOT interchange any parts with a 318 of any year. A 315 is 2" shorter than a 318. Now there was a 315 Hemi but finding 315 Hemi heads might be difficult. The blocks were the same just mounted Hemi heads. So if you are planning a build up or want to have an easier time finding parts you'll want to find a poly 318. Those can be stroked to a 408?? and can crank some serious HP. I have headers on my 64 Town Wagon's poly 318 and there are new headers available . You'll need a 318 with a front motor mount unless you make your own mounts to the frame. Just what you wanted to hear.
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Old 10-17-2011, 09:42 AM   #13
MrMarty51
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All the master cylinder I have been looking at shows the 59 with a small screw in cap,the 60 shows the M.C. with the large round type of cover with the 5/16ths bolt run through it,I like the latter one better.
Now that is some sad news about the 315,crap.I was hoping He still had the old block laying around,nope,not what I wanted to hear.LOLOLOL
According to the website I was looking at the stamped number on the front of the block is TMP 8 and they are showing the letter code MP 8 as a 318 and I thought the T must have been for truck applications,the so called 315 bolted right in without a hitch.
So then,with that,I`m wondering if the AL series timing chain components will be the same???cam bushings,etc.etc.etc???
I`ll be back later,I gots some checking around todo.LOL
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:48 AM   #14
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Talked to the machinist what is doing the crankshaft and rods.
He is saying that the stroke is a 3.313 and the pistons come up as a .030 over 313.
Mine book does`nt show a 313,not in any of My books,I have two,Motors Truck from 52 to 61 and another Motors auto for 61.
Casting numbers on the block is 1737929 which He said is a 303 or a 327,I do not have any of those numbers in My book either,He said His book lists them.
also this engine does not have the valley pan under the intake so now I`m getting really cornfused as to what the heck I do have.LOLOLOL
Anyone have any ideas or help????
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Old 10-17-2011, 12:32 PM   #15
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OK,I found this.A very comprehensive listing of casting numbers.
I am guessing that the machinist is all screwedup,I measured one of the pistons before i sent them the parts and according to what I come up with and what the book said,the piston I measured is a 318 and the casting numbers on the block could mean about anything but I am guessing it is a 318.
http://jholst.net/interchange/8-engine.pdf
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