Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

power steering kit on '51 M37

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • power steering kit on '51 M37

    I picked up a power steering kit from Vintage Power in Iowa - I've got the conversion nearly done but may be having a problem re-installing the pitman arm onto the splined shaft of the Saginaw box. I've got the splines lined up, but the arm only goes so far on the shaft - after putting on the lock washer and the nut and tightening it down to where the lock washer is compressed, the interior thread on the nut still shows - about 1/8" or so. Is this normal or am I missing something or doing something wrong? Appreciate your input as I'd like to get this finished so I can start using the truck-
    Thanks Much!

    and in case someone asks, yes, I've pulled it back off several times and checked the splines on both pieces - no damage....

  • #2
    I'm told that the re-built box's get the output shafts mixed up when they are rebuilt. The Dodge Shaft is the same spline and tapper as the GM's, but the GM's are slightly larger, and therefore the pitman arm doesn't slide on as for. I end up having to leave the lock washer off and use red loc-tite.

    I drive a DODGE, not a ram!

    Thanks,
    Will
    WAWII.com

    1946 WDX Power Wagon - "Missouri Mule"
    1953 M37 - "Frankenstein"
    1993 Jeep YJ - "Will Power"
    1984 Dodge Ramcharger - "2014 Ramcharger"
    2006 3500 DRW 4WD Mega Cab - "Power Wagon Hauler"

    Comment


    • #3
      PS on M37

      thanks for the response, I'll follow your advice. As a newbie to the world of M37's, this forum is a godsend.

      Comment


      • #4
        I have ran into the same thing on 6-8 installs, I have yet to figure out a better fix.
        1967 W200.aka.Hank
        1946 WDX.aka.Shorty
        2012 Ram 2500 PowerWagon.aka Ollie

        Life is easier in a lower gear.

        Comment


        • #5
          Ps m37

          Thanks for the additional reinforcement on the "how to" - removed the nut, tossed the lock washer into the misc. parts bin, applied the loctite, ran the nut down and tightened - looks much better -

          Perhaps you can save me some research - what the best way to gain about 15-20 mph - I'm leery about pushing the stock 6 cyl much over 45mph as I've heard bad things happen internally.... and down here in Tx., they've got farm tractors that run that fast...

          The tires are 305/85/R16 - and have done some reading about going to a taller tire - but that doesn't seem to be a sure thing - nor does different gears in the rear end - I'd like the truck to be a daily driver - no thought about going deep mud or rock climbing - the hardest chore might be going into some bottom land (pretty dry) to haul out some pecan lumber that we're salvaging...

          Re-powering isn't really an option at this point - the truck only has 31000 on it and seems pretty strong - looking forward to your thoughts -

          Comment


          • #6
            The stock 230 engine isn't built for high RPM's nor was the truck built for speed. They were built to top out at 50-55MPH in stock form.

            Your tire size is very close to stock height, and the M's all had 5.83 gears. You could change out the gears to the 4.88's that would give you a just under a 20% increase. But you will have to do a good job of tuning and tweaking the 230 to squeeze out all the power to take full advantage of the extra speed.
            I drive a DODGE, not a ram!

            Thanks,
            Will
            WAWII.com

            1946 WDX Power Wagon - "Missouri Mule"
            1953 M37 - "Frankenstein"
            1993 Jeep YJ - "Will Power"
            1984 Dodge Ramcharger - "2014 Ramcharger"
            2006 3500 DRW 4WD Mega Cab - "Power Wagon Hauler"

            Comment


            • #7
              4:88's

              Couple a more questions, since you've been so generous w/your knowledge -

              1. is it advisable to run truck @ 50-55 - am I risking engine damage...

              2. best source for the 4:88's - we're pretty flat and level here - most changes in elevation are due to over passes

              3. best have tranny shop change the gears or is this something doable ?

              Finding this forum is the 3rd best thing in my life - right after my wife and my '51 M37

              Thanks !

              Comment


              • #8
                1. is it advisable to run truck @ 50-55 - am I risking engine damage...
                The trucks were designed to travel at this speed, and I've ran my 230's at these speeds with no issue, but after a while the roar of the engine has you wondering.

                2. best source for the 4:88's - we're pretty flat and level here - most changes in elevation are due to over passes.

                Used ones are out there but hard to find. Because of the demand, Vintage Power Wagons is re-producing these gear sets.

                3. best have tranny shop change the gears or is this something doable ?
                The biggest issue in doing the gear swap to me is the pinion bearings. they are rarer than the 4.88 gears and expensive if you need them. I'd use a quality shop to swap over your existing bearings over to the new gears.

                Glad you are here and learning. There are a lot of us here to help you out and enjoy the truck.
                I drive a DODGE, not a ram!

                Thanks,
                Will
                WAWII.com

                1946 WDX Power Wagon - "Missouri Mule"
                1953 M37 - "Frankenstein"
                1993 Jeep YJ - "Will Power"
                1984 Dodge Ramcharger - "2014 Ramcharger"
                2006 3500 DRW 4WD Mega Cab - "Power Wagon Hauler"

                Comment


                • #9
                  p/s install on m37

                  So, haven't gotten as far as I'd hoped as biz commitments keep getting in the way - plus had to change pulleys on the crank and the water pump to get the alignments that I needed - Thanks to Matt in the shop for advice on this - pulling the radiator made this work a whole lot easier!

                  Finally got hoses ran from p/s pump to Saginaw box - have question on return and hi-pressure ports - want to make sure that the port closest to the input side of the box is the return line...am I correct ?

                  Also had to install a new alternator (smaller) in order to make use of available room under the p/s pump - There is a heavier gauge "red" wire and a smaller diameter red/white wire coming off the alternator - thinking the smaller wire goes to the amp gauge and the heavier wire goes to the fuse block. am I right about this ?

                  Continued thanks for the advice and ideas -

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The pressure port on the PS Box, is the one located to the front of the vehicle (High pressure hose seen in the picture blow) and the return is the one located to the rear, closest to the input shaft (Hard line slightly visible in the inner wheel wheel notch).



                    On the Alternator, is is a GM style one wire unit?
                    I drive a DODGE, not a ram!

                    Thanks,
                    Will
                    WAWII.com

                    1946 WDX Power Wagon - "Missouri Mule"
                    1953 M37 - "Frankenstein"
                    1993 Jeep YJ - "Will Power"
                    1984 Dodge Ramcharger - "2014 Ramcharger"
                    2006 3500 DRW 4WD Mega Cab - "Power Wagon Hauler"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      p/s conversion on '51 m37

                      Just want to say thanks to all who provided insights, advice, and links that allowed me (an admitted rookie with regard to this kind of project) to complete the conversion. A tip o the hat to the parts and shop guys in Iowa whose usual answer to my phone calls was "Oh, you need this or you need that, we'll get it shipped today."

                      The next project will be to figure out how to do one or a combination of:
                      1. shorten my legs
                      2. revamp clutch/brake pedals
                      3. do something to the drivers seat

                      I darn near hurt myself trying to get my feet onto the right pedal at the right time to clutch/brake to keep from scaring or injuring unsuspecting motorists/pedestrians. Guess the Army wasn't concerned about the M37 being ergonomically comfortable for someone 6'4" & 275 lb.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X