Who has 4 wheel disk brakes?

[Jason Mills]

I'm evolving towards disk brakes on my WDX. In speaking with Ray at Helitool, he asked if I want front or rear.

I had not even considered a rear brake conversion the idea had never occurred to me. .... To those of you whom have done it, What do you think? Why did you put disks on the rear? Did you achieve the desired results?

Any and all opinions welcome.

[W_A_Watson_II]

I have all four on my M37, and Front Only on my '46 PW.

If you only do one axle, it should (must) ne the fronts as they do most of the braking.

It all depends on how much you plan on using it and what shape the rear axles brake are in. I did all four on the M as it was going to be an off road had use truck. I left the rears on the PW drum because I could get them in good working shape and the truck isn't re-powered or going to do a lot of driving.

[Jason Mills]

Agreed that the front's get done first... guess I was not clearly stating that I am wondering what the advantages of upgrading the rears as well.

I have in the past put shorter tires on my daily driver car, and the improvement in braking was noticeable, remarkable, and quite appealing. It would stop effortlessly... and I've toyed with the idea of 7.50-16's for just that reason... wondering if adding the back disk brake conversion would do the same thing with 9.00-16's?

Do you notice a remarkable difference between the M-37 and the WDX?

[W_A_Watson_II]

Good condition and properly adjusted drum brakes on these trucks works great. The advantage of the disc is no constant adjusting if you use it a lot, and the slave cylinders don't tent to leak with age.

[Jason Mills]

So the 4 wheel disk brake option is largely owner preference and for the modern advantage of being self adjusting?

How about less brake fade?

[DrPepper]

I like 4 wheel disk...but

it's the sorry motorcycle size parking brake that comes with rear disks that is disappointing. By the time I sold my Dakota I was so tired of repairing them it was good to see it go. They would not hold on any hill including my driveway, since it was a stick, running in neutral to warm up was not an option. My '57 has '79 axles and my 1st order was to install proper parking brake cables and actuator.
Just something else to think about....
DrPepper

[CSCameron]

I've got Helitool's 4 wheel disc brakes on my 55 FFPW and have not looked back. They work great. Of course, my drum brakes were in need of total restoration at the time, I just decided to put that money into the discs.

I am running a new single chamber slope top master cylinder (Midwest Military) on them with a proportioning valve (Summit) on the rear discs. I haven't had any problem stopping. Oh, I am running a dually setup too. I will eventually upgrade to a dual chamber master cylinder for safety's sake and maybe power assist too but I have other things to do first. :)

Clark

[Jason Mills]

I've got Helitool's 4 wheel disc brakes on my 55 FFPW and have not looked back. They work great. Of course, my drum brakes were in need of total restoration at the time, I just decided to put that money into the discs.

I am running a new single chamber slope top master cylinder (Midwest Military) on them with a proportioning valve (Summit) on the rear discs. I haven't had any problem stopping. Oh, I am running a dually setup too. I will eventually upgrade to a dual chamber master cylinder for safety's sake and maybe power assist too but I have other things to do first. :)

Clark

4 wheel disk brakes are probably overkill in my situation..

Nice looking tires on those wheels, what are they?

[CSCameron]

Thanks. Those tires are 9.00x16 Yellow Sea radials (Michelin XZL clones). You can get them here...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230973386301...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[aeblank]

I plan to do 4-wheel disc on my '48.
It's a spendy upgrade though, that's for sure.

I'm in the same boat as others, my drums would need a lot of work. Combine that with the 'just works' aspect of discs, and I'm sold. A one-time expense.

It's funny that you hadn't considered doing the rears, because I hadn't considered *not* doing the rears. Perspective, I suppose.

[Desoto61]

I did all 4 wheels on mine. I agree that it's not necessary, in fact you'll have to add a proportioning valve so the rear brakes get less pressure and don't lock up before the fronts.

Aside from the adjustment benefits and overall simplicity (only one moving part), the rest is also true, they will fade less if you are doing heavy breaking but that's probably not a common thing unless you are re-powering, but the other big benefit is that outside the brackets and the flanges on the hubs the parts for the conversion are off-the-shelf at just about any auto parts store. Long term that should make replacing brakes mostly as simple as any modern vehicle, while it will only get harder for stock drums.

If you're someone worried about breaking things since the front and rear are the same kit you always have rear brakes to steal from in an emergency to get a front brake working again, like on a stock truck.

The e-brake issue with most modern vehicles is true, but our trucks don't use an e-brake on the rear axle, so it's a non-issue.

[Matthew Welcher PWA]

I have installed them on Trucks, they work so very well and are not terrible to install. Drilling out the rear backing plate rivets is the worst part.

[im02crazy]

Hanging pedals and hydraulic clutch conversion

I'm also considering the move to 2 axle disc brakes. It seems to make sense to do the hanging pedals and hydraulic clutch conversion too.

I think this is a slippery slope..... . . . .. .

What does it take to do the hydraulic clutch conversion on a NP420 stock bell housing?? What's the best approach to this?

Thanks
Dave in Baltimore

[Jason Mills]

I believe you will need to change the bell housing's to a sweptline era.. so getting that clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder together should take care of that.

Although I suppose you could covert the original to be hydraulic.

I am a big fan of Greg Coffin's under floor dual master/ brake booster bracket. It is an elegant, simple, and solves the dual master issue for me. Also I like the look of the original brake and clutch going through the floor.. Some like the hanging peddles b/c of the extra leg room provided. I am fortunate enough not to be that tall.

[W_A_Watson_II]

I did it on my '46 PW. Took a little engineering and some fitment trials, but I have the stock clutch operated from a late 60's Dodge Slave Cylinder. Works well.