46 Power Wagon Restoration pt. 2

[defdes]

I've done a lot of .065 counter and table tops that way, but it was also laminated to a plywood sub straight and didn't require the welding on the back.

[Desoto61]

Managed to save the passenger side floor plate. Modified the holes so it could be bolted in place then welded up the extra space. As for bending the two panels, I used some angle iron clamped into my vice, a second piece was clamped on top of that with the panel in between. Then I could use some leverage and a hammer to work the bend into the piece. The driver's side went a lot easier with the learning curve from the passenger side.

The trans cover has captured nuts which I cleaned out with a tap, on the outside I had to drill new holes due to the new floors. I purchased some domed stainless screws and washers to hold the pans down. On the outside holes I installed regular nuts to the under side of the floor and tack welded them in place. I'll have to finish them when the cab comes back off.

I think I've managed to figure a plan for seats, just waiting on some fabric samples before I place an order.

[Desoto61]

franken-vents

I removed the gutter inside the cowl vent so I could clean and paint the area properly, but I need to temporarily put the cowl vent back in order to repair the mechanism. The push rod on mine had broken and the pivot points were hung up. I haven't decided if I'm going to try and re-do the mechanical linkage or go with an aftermarket electrical mechanism, but regardless the actual door needs to be in place so I know what space I have under the dash.

The original shoulder bolts were in pretty rough shape and replacements locally are not a simple task so an alternative needed to be found. The original has 1/4-20 threads but the shoulder area that the hinge rides on is 3/8". I found spacer material with those dimensions and installed it into the bracket as a slight press. It was way longer then I needed so i cut it long and ground it back till it was just proud of the hinge on both sides. then a bolt and nylon locknut can be installed through the two pieces and tightened till snug. This allows the two pieces to pivot against each other.

I also had to drill out and re-tap the threaded holes that mount the hinge bar to the cowl vent as the originals had snapped off during disassembly. The unit isn't attached to the truck but doesn't need to be for mockup purposes.

The windshield opener on my truck had been removed at some point in the past. I'd like to keep the functionality but refurbished openers are expensive and take up lots of room vertically behind the dash, so I figured I'd exeriment. I made some cardboard mockups and played around with a 4-bar and then a 6-bar linkage which is more robust, takes up less room vertically, and is fairly simple (if I can make it work).

The big issue with them is the horizontal space, there is plenty under the dash but the opening in the cowl is fairly small and I don't want to open it up any more than i have to. This is what drove the need to go from 4 to 6 bar linkages. I also needed some additional length which the extra links provide. It works nicely but the fasteners are too thick so I'll need to work out a different way of connecting the pivot points. A linear actuator between the two links or geared motor attached one of the link bars should open and close the unit. Then I just need to work on mounting the whole unit under the dash.

[Matthew Ziegler]

actuator

Check out autoloc.com, they have a power cowl vent kit and all sorts of actuators and solenoids. I bought a shaved door handlr kit from them, nice stuff seems overbuilt.

[Desoto61]

Check out autoloc.com, they have a power cowl vent kit and all sorts of actuators and solenoids. I bought a shaved door handlr kit from them, nice stuff seems overbuilt.

Thanks for the link, I ended up getting it elsewhere but they do have some other interesting pieces.

The screws and nylon lock nuts were too big and prevented the mechanism from fitting through the cowl opening. So I got some 1/4" round stock and drilled and cut them to make little pins that I then welded to one of the two pieces. A cotter pin will hold the two together and still allow for disassembly.

Then I needed a way to mount it to the windshield. I cut and bent some 16 ga. sheet to form a mount. I have to drill out a broken screw from my frame before I can fit it though. Once I have the shape correct I can trim the upper and lower piece and weld it. Then cut another pin that will hold the front two links and the bracket all together.

I did however have to open up the cowl opening on each side by about 1/2" to provde the clearance the linkage needed to unfurl. Next will be to build a mount for it. The linkage will need more of an angle than I thought which will make the mount a little more challenging, but I need to get the actuator attached first.

[Desoto61]

the little things

One of my goals with this thread was to document all the work that goes into one of these trucks. We all understand that there is a lot of work in it, but that's kind of like saying we all understand that the universe is really big. Knowing and comprehending are not the same thing.

It somehow never seems to stop surprising me at how much time disappears on details (which may be the real devil referred to). Most of a day was spent yesterday on seemingly minor things. I finished building and mounting the windshield opener bracket, which naturally involved having to drill out and remove the two screws that had snapped off in the frame. That required disassembling the frame so I could more easily get it in the drill press, and all ultimately so I could install two screws which took all of 30 seconds.

I also cut and welded a few tabs into the opening in the dash so I can mount the new gauge panel (once I have it cut). Again, cutting, cleaning, fitting, welding, and dressing the six little squares of metal was at least an hour, probably closer to two, and thats only because I already have all the tools out and ready to use. I also closed some smaller mounting holes from previous modifications that are no longer needed while I was at it. Add in some cleanup time and most of a day is gone with what feels like nothing done.

There are lots of these, and they are all necessary, but the devil of the details is that they take most of the time and yield few of the joys of tasks such as paint or installing the drivetrain.

[Desoto61]

My motivation hasn't been what it was, partly because I'm still not sure all this effort is going to work the way I want it to, so it could turn out to be a waste. But forward progres is being made. I recieved the linear motor, it has a 2" throw and is rated at 150 lbs. Probably overkill, but at higher speeds there is fairly significant force excerted on the windshield, and there is no difference in cost, the heavier units just move slower, which is fine.

I had to create two new links to attach the ends of the motor to the scissor mechanism. This all got mounted to a cup that holds the motor from moving forwards or backwards and will attach to the dashboard mount. The linkage mounts to the base using a bolt through the fixed pivot point on a spacer to allow the linkages room to move. Longer bolts with support tubes attach the motor to the end links.

The hardest part has been determining the correct mounting angle and position for the unit under the dash. Holding it in place and trying to take measurements, or do work is tricky. An angle measurement helps determine where to attach it to the backing plate, and some flexability in the mounting plate will let me locate it more easily so I can mark and drill the mounting holes. Then I can at least test it to make sure it all works before welding the mount plate to the support base.

[Desoto61]

It works!

Window Opener

Not perfectly, for some reason it was not extending or retracting as far as it had on the bench, and it's just slightly rubbing one side of the opening. I think one of the links is too loose, I'll have to weld up and re-drill the mounting hole to tighten the action and clearance the cowl opening. Still, it may just do what I want.

It's not the simplest way but even with the linear motor it was no more expensive then I've seen decent stock mechanisms for on e-bay and elsewhere. It should be every bit as reliable and takes up less vertical space behind the dash which can be used for other things.

Once I work out the bugs and finish the welding, the next task is to do something similar for the cowl vent but that can will be far simpler. Also finally recieved the fabric samples for the seats so I can decide and get those ordered along with the seatbelts.

[cj7ox]

Nice!

[Desoto61]

Turned out the issue with the opener was installer error, had the end links hooked up wrong, once corrected it worked much better. Once I had it where I wanted I marked the two mounting holes in dash and drilled the mounting bracket. Then I pulled it and finished welding the bracket, tack welded two nuts behind the mounting holes, and cleaned up and fixed a few of the links to make them a little tighter. I also added a piece here and there to keep the liniear motor from pivoting as much which was creating some of the slack in the mechanism.

I picked up and quickly wired a double pole switch so I could cycle the system more easily and put it back in to see if there were any other tweaks that needed made. After I got everything aligned it really hasn't needed it. It extends about 5 1/2" and pulls nice and tight.

I'm thinking I may try and use one of the hotrod window switch conversions to turn a stock operator handle into the switch for the mechanism, or build something similar, though first I need to buy an operator handle.

I also picked up the adapters and pieces needed to start hooking up the hydroboost brakes and power steering lines. Earl's makes adapters to go from the combination of metric o-ring fittings on the pump and hydroboost, and SAE inverted flare fittings on the steering box to AN line. They also make braided stainless line and AN fittings for power steering use. The lines are tricky to cut but the fittings aren't bad to use and come in different angles. I can do most of the lines except for the return to the pump. I want to install a power steering cooler which I don't have yet, so plumbing for that will need to wait.

Final small task was to install the Painless brake light switch. I don't care for the hydraulic switches, this one is mechanical and threads into a fitting so that the brake peddle pushes against it when the brakes are off. To mount it I drilled a hole in the stop bracket for Ray's hanging peddles and tack welded a nut over the opening that the swtich threads into, a second nut locks it in place. This version has two poles, one for brake lights and a second which can be used as a signal for cruise control or similar.

I also finally managed to place the order for my seats, it will be a few weeks but that will let me move onto a lot of the bigger items like steering, accelerator peddle, and belts.

[scott nepa]

Desoto61, you are the man, this has to be the best restoration on a pw with lots of pics i have ever seen. keep up the good work..

[Desoto61]

Desoto61, you are the man, this has to be the best restoration on a pw with lots of pics i have ever seen. keep up the good work..

Thanks, I really do it as much to get tips and input as to show what's involved. I'm learning most of this stuff as I go (and making up the rest)!

[Desoto61]

Like many the transfer case lever bracket on my truck was badly worn as were the lever bushings. I had replaced the bushings but the worn shaft still allowed a lot of play in the levers. Luckily the shaft is 1/2" bar stock, and it's just surface welded to the back side of the bracket. I ground the weld off and could drive the shaft out. Unfortunately, the shaft is smaller where it passes through the bracket. You could drill the hole out larger and then re-weld, but my neighbor has a metal lathe so he quickly turned the stock down to fit in the hole. Then it's just a matter of drilling a new pin hole at the other end and welding it back into the bracket.

The e-brake lever had a similar issue. The pins at the upper and lower pivot are easy enough to replace, but there are no bushings so the holes themselves were egg shaped. So my solution was to weld them shut and re-drill them to the right size. I used a copper backing plate head from a welding tool and clamped it to the back side of one of the legs of the lever and welded the hole closed. Then I could use the existing hole in the other side to locate the hole and re-drill it to the correct size. Then flip it over and repeat the process on the other side.

Final result is a nice tight lever assembly that will hopefully be good for another 60 years.

[Desoto61]

Windshield Wipers

I've been trying to figure out how to adapt a more modern wiper system to the truck, unfortunately most of the systems are designed to be mounted below the windshield. The arms they use are usually not right either and their mounting style is unique.

After a handful of other experiments I think I've found a solution. The pivot from a 76-86 Jeep CJ is available as a replacement item. It's not cheap but it's small and easily mounted. Just open the stock opening to 5/8" (may have to go slightly larger with a file), and then use a small round file to make a slot for the locating tab. The unit comes with a keyed washer that also fits over that tab and a nut to keep everything tight.

I plan to add an extra plate behind for re-enforcement and weld up the locating hole below the wiper arm. For final install I'll make a gasket or use some sealer to keep any water from getting in around the opening.

An adjustable wiper arm fits the pivot and will allow me to adjust the length and angle to fit the windshield. The hard part will be building the linkage and figuring how to mount the motor. I don't think there's any way I'm going to get it to fit in the header panel, but I may have a way to hide it.

[Desoto61]

Still working through the windshield wiper setup. It seems straight forward but we all know it never actually is. To help prevent wallowing or bending the cab metal where the pivots pass through I cut and drilled some support plates that I tack welded to the inside of the cab. It also allowed me to weld shut the small locating holes under the pivots.

A set of rod ends will connect the motor and the pivots together using some metal tubing. The first snag is that I thought these units were all standard sizes, but the 5/16" rod ends were too small for the pins by a few thousanths, some sandpaper fixed the fit but it was a tedious process.

The motor is from a Durango, any motor should work fine but I had purchased this one thinking I could make the attached linkage system work so I already had it. I plan to mount it externally to the header box, so another support plate was cut and drilled and welded in behind the header with some plug welds.

The motor is mounted centered on the header which offsets the output shaft to the driver's side. Because of the "V" shape of the header I had to relieve the opposite side of the header so the motor would sit flat. Centering the output shaft would solve that issue but look a little weird inside the cab and make the interference worse. Similarly a smaller or differently shaped motor might make things easier but this one should be plenty strong for any weather.

It's not stock looking but my plan is to build a center console to hide it and maybe hold some map lights, switches, or similar.

Next step is to determine how much sweep I need so I can determine how much I need to modify the motor output drive. Then I can measure and build the connecting links. The second big trip up was that the arms I used are adjustable but are for older vehicles and use an old mounting method. Add in that it needs a small 10 or 11" wiper blade and finding the right unit gets tricky. The local shops didn't have anything that fit.