View Full Version : 6BT question
yosemitesamiam
01-19-2007, 12:42 AM
Hey all...I know this has been discussed before at great length, and I know the 6BT is all but impossible to squeeze in under the PW hood. Is there a way the frame could be stretched some to accommodate? Would that be the easiest/only way? Anyone here done it, or thought about it?
I only ask because, well...why not? LOL
Thanks guys.
Sam
Tom Petroff
01-19-2007, 08:07 AM
Hey all...I know this has been discussed before at great length, and I know the 6BT is all but impossible to squeeze in under the PW hood. Is there a way the frame could be stretched some to accommodate? Would that be the easiest/only way? Anyone here done it, or thought about it?
I only ask because, well...why not? LOL
Thanks guys.
Sam
It's been done. Not impossible,just a lot more work than useing a 4bt/4bta.
You need to cut the cab and build a "dog house", amung other things.
IMO a 4bt is plenty of power with less work.
Click here
http://www.t137.com/cpg/displayimage.php?album=16&pos=16
For a lokk at a very nice pw 6x6 that belongs to Bob in IL.
TGP
JimmieD
01-19-2007, 08:57 AM
Hey, Tom great pics!!
But the semi-gloss black is punishing my old tired eyes, so can you tell me anything about that brake booster assembly, and what looks like a vacuum reservoir, and the interesting clutch cylinder on firewall?
I'm guessing that's an H1C non-WG turbo with a VE pump from the looks of it. Also curious about the firewall matting material. Thanks!
JimmieD
Doc Dave
01-19-2007, 09:22 AM
Jimmie,
They will fit better in the W series trucks rather than the flatfender.
Norm has published pics of a W200, I believe, with a 1st generation 6BT. I think the only space adjustemnt needed was using an electric fan to save a few inches in the front.
I was at the last Iowa rally (as was Tom), and there were two flatfenders with 6BT's in them. Both had the dog houses jutting some into the cab if I recall.
JimmieD
01-19-2007, 09:45 AM
Yes, Reg at RCTS just did that nice 6BT swap into his W-200.
For the power they put out and the additional factor of MUCH BETTER fuel economy I think a 4BT is the way to go even though the prices are creeping up. Plenty of power, surprising really to me. Yes, more is better in some cases, but a 4BT can easily hit 200-230 HP and 500 ft. lbs. torque. That's a lot of push me-pull you....
Doc Dave
01-19-2007, 10:03 AM
Yes,
I will be putting a 4BT in my M37 project truck. That won't happen for a few years as I have to finish the civilian!
I got a 4BT runner, and a spare 4BT long block put away in my shed.
MoparNorm
01-19-2007, 10:18 AM
Hey all...I know this has been discussed before at great length, and I know the 6BT is all but impossible to squeeze in under the PW hood. Is there a way the frame could be stretched some to accommodate? Would that be the easiest/only way? Anyone here done it, or thought about it?
I only ask because, well...why not? LOL
Thanks guys.
Sam
Why not as follows: expensive rework of body and frame, Power Wagon and most Dodge frames were not designed (heat treated) to be cut upon or welded) I have no idea what the cost would be in order to properly replicate the hood and louvers, or cowl and firewall. Lastly, once all of the nearly impossible and prohibitively expensive frame and bodywork was completed you have a motor that is tremendously heavy for that truck, not very practical for off road. The 4bt is the same basic motor as the 6bt with two cylinders removed. Good weight (still heavy but lighter than the 6 by several hundred pounds, perhaps as much as 400 lbs lighter!) good fuel ecomony and plenty of power! While some have installed 6bts that protrude into the cab, I'd be hard pressed to think that is a good idea, too much heat and TOO MUCH noise you'd be cooked and deaf in about 30 minutes. Given that the heat and noise can be overcome, you are losing much of that "spacious cab" leg and feet room.
There is a reason that most folks do not try to walk up the down escalator or climb into an active volcano, however that being said, it's your truck and if you happen to be wealthy or a Lotto winner, we'd like to see pictures when you are finished with the $17,000 6BT conversion!
MN
JimmieD
01-19-2007, 10:24 AM
But if you've got your heart set on it I can drop in a 6BT for you for $16,500 :~ )
Tom Petroff
01-19-2007, 02:33 PM
Hey, Tom great pics!!
But the semi-gloss black is punishing my old tired eyes, so can you tell me anything about that brake booster assembly, and what looks like a vacuum reservoir, and the interesting clutch cylinder on firewall?
I'm guessing that's an H1C non-WG turbo with a VE pump from the looks of it. Also curious about the firewall matting material. Thanks!
JimmieD
I'm sorry Jimmie. I can't answer those questions. The truck belongs to
Bob Jones from up ugg's way (chicago)
He post on Joe's forum every once in a while.
He did a fantastic job on it,I was so busy taking Pic's I didn't axe to many questions,ha
JimmieD
01-19-2007, 11:31 PM
That's okay, Tom, thanks anyways.
I already decided to go Hydroboost if I do power brakes and that unit on his truck looks like a vacuum device. No vacuum pump on my engine so.....
Don in Missouri
01-22-2007, 02:32 PM
I've done a frame stretch. Norm may be right about the strength of the frame. Time and the off-road abuse I plan to give it will tell if it holds up or not. The whole project is an experiment.
I stretched it 9 inches to fit a '39 Chrysler straight-eight. That's about the same length you would need for a 6bt without dog-housing the firewall. It is also the spacing needed for a fourth set louvers on the hood.
I made my extended frame with just one seam, which is spanned by both the engine and the springs. Shear in the frame will be minimum at the seam. The engine block will help carry the moment or bending stress across the seam.
My initial concept was to use the original spring hangers, and just make really long springs. They would have some impressive off-road flex, but I was concerned they would be unstable on the road. Instead, I am using M37 springs, which are somewhat longer with shackles on the rear. I think, but have not confirmed that my castor angles will be OK.
I long considered a 6bt or a 4bt swap. I decided putting all that moderm machinery (metric nonetheless) into an old truck I admired would be betraying the heart and soul of the old machine. I love Diesel, and I dream of converting everything else form my lawnmower to my boat to Cummins power. But I decided my old Power Wagon deserved a little patience getting up to speed, and that I could afford to waste gasoline for the short pleasure trips we take together.
JimmieD
01-22-2007, 04:49 PM
Well you got a lotta gall, Don, just a lot of gall. How can you run out a post like that telling about such a cool conversion and NOT POST PICS!??!!!
Lotta gall, I'm tellin ya, lotta gall...
JimmieD
01-22-2007, 07:39 PM
[well, that didn't work...]
PLEASE, DON, PICS?
Don in Missouri
01-25-2007, 02:41 PM
I can't find my photo of the straight-eight sitting in the frame.
You'll have to settle for this doctored photo showing what a hood will look like 6 inches longer.
Don in Missouri
01-25-2007, 02:48 PM
I meant 9 inches longer.
I'm not performing this surgery on my Carryall. At least, not yet.
I'm doing it to a dilapidated WC59-A low production telephone installation truck. There wasn't much left of the WC59, but I do still have the extra long one-piece running boards that would be perfect for the stretched Carryall.
The straight-eight came with an overdrive transmission, but with no low gear. I plan to use the WC transmission and a Brown Lipe overdrive. Squeezing the Brownie in is going to be the least elegant part of the conversion.
JimmieD
01-25-2007, 10:13 PM
Well, thanks for the additional. That Chrysler straight eight was one fine piece of machinery, elegant, powerful and gobs of silent torque. Anything that could haul that much sheer mass had to have some oomph in the right places.
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