75 Dodge D200 Club Cab Cummins swap project

[rcts]

I purchased a 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab that spent 30 years in a shop, its like brand new condition as well as the camper that matches the purchase date. My plan is to put a Cummins engine in this truck camper setup, Yesterday I purchased my donor 1992 D250 club cab 2wd. See pictures. As you know there is not much info on this era truck other than this forum and web site of yours, your site is the best one on the net for the 70’s trucks.

I want the 75 D200 for lugging the heavy camper as well to pull my companies car trailer into car shows, then I can leave the truck in the show as well, hee hee.
My company is in Calgary Alberta Canada, we are a race car shop, called RCTS CANADA R&D INC.

http://www.monsterhorsepower.com

Reg Riemer 403-620-5969

Any comments or experience would be great.

http://web.mac.com/rctscanadainc/iWeb/75_D200_cummins%20swap/1975_Dodge_Cummins.html

Thanks in advance

Reg

[JimmieD]

Wow, what an awesome project! The 1st Gens are the best and stuffing one in your beautiful new truck sounds great!

I'm doing a 4BT swap but Mike Mc is doing a 6BTA and has plenty of info. Some problems can come up regarding cooling and the aftercooler but they are solvable. That early engine with the Bosch VE pump is so easy to tweak up it's amazing. A little fiddling with the aneroid adjustment [power screw] and some fatter injectors and a bigger air filter can do wonders! Still leaves you with a solid and reliable daily driver, too. Also it doesn't have all the computer stuff and other complications: just plain old CUMMINS POWER!

If you're going to run an automatic the word is that the torque converter really should be upgraded, especially for towing. Run the biggest tranny cooler you can get your hands on also. The B&M 70264 is worth looking at. Post lots of pics here as you go and let us know how it's going on it?

[Went to your excellent webpages AFTER replying to your post. I thought that name sounded familiar ha haha! I surmise that you probably have the capabilities to make that Cummins growl very loudly indeed. Congratulations, again!]

JimmieD

[rcts]

Thanks for all the info, I looked at quite a few trucks before I started looking for the donor truck. Both trucks are 1 ton clubcabs 2wd automatics, PS no AC. The 92 is intercooled as well, with factory upgraded trans and engine cooler, intercooler, it also has cruise control on the wheel. I may move this to some place on the dash if I can find a hiding spot as I'm not going to use the 92 column I'm leaving the classic one in the cab.

I have looked at both trucks on the lift side by side and the frames and such look almost identical, in fact the 75 looks thicker in some places as well they are both boxed and such, very strong. Also my 75 has no AC or any other accessories other than power steering, this will help the weight, I shouuld be able to use the front springs from the 1st gen as well.

Motor mounts look to be identical place and both are the same structure so it should go ok, I'm planning on dropping the complete engine trans and diff into the 75. I will have to use the 1 gen's rear trans mount and move it to where it sits on the frame in the newer truck as the 360 v8 auto is shorter by about 14 inch's.

The member that talked about the rad is correct, the hood line along the ridge under the Rams head in the newer truck is higher than the 75 by about an inch and a half. My 75 hood is flat and has low spots near the centre like the old Mopar’S of the 60's. The rad will take some working out, the intercooler looks fine and will clear all the bits other than the hood release support, I will have to use the 92 one as its flatter to make room for the intercooler. A 2 inch body lift would solve the rad clearance issue so I can run the stock hood as I won't do the swap if I can run the stock body. Do you know of any small body lift kits for the 1st Gen's? the lift may be also nessesary if I have any trans tunnel clearance issues, but so far the tunnel looks ok. The shape is different for the 92 than mine but I think this was because Dodge set up the floor in all of them for the manual trans.

Wheel base is exact as is the fuel cell location and mounting is exact. Drive shaft and other parts, power steering and such are all the exact same.

I need to find a wire diagram for the 92 as well, I have a nice one for the 75 from

http://www.classiccarwiring.com/

It was inexpensive and they delivered very fast.

If you have any text on the tested performance upgrades for this I would want to do this stuff. I'm interested in great economy as well. The Cummins I have here seems like it has the rotary pump, I checked on the vin number with dodge and they said the pump was upgraded on warranty back in 1995.

I have a ton more questions for you if you don't mind!

•When they change injectors on these are the cranking up boost pressure? •What boost pressure do these engines run at stock?
•Can I get an aftermarket Tach for this engine?

Reg Riemer

Thanks in advance for all your comments.

[JimmieD]

Hi Reg!

I'll have to search out some info on details of upgraded VP rotary pump but I know it has higher output at higher pressures, and it is apparently lubricated, where the VE piston pump gets all lube from the fuel. The VP has a fuel plate which can be fairly easily modified [ground] to a new profile for increased fuel delivery and the aneroid [power screw] can be adjusted for more fuel. I think I have fuel plate profiles I can e-mail you. They also respond well to a high capacity electric fuel pump like Glacier's stuff or Walbro etc. Holley Blue can't cut it regardless of what some say.

The VP aneroid adjustment makes HUGE differences but you have to use care in the process. It must be done with turbo intake tube disconnected and with a small piece of plywood handy. If you go too far then start it you can get diesel 'Runaway' as the engine revs to the max or beyond and can't be shut off! Slap the plywood over the intake and it stalls it right out. If you use your hand instead of plywood you will be referred to as 'Lefty' from that point on as it will suck you in up to the elbow..... Regardless of dire implications this is an easy and safe process and results in far more power with little impact on fuel economy.

This pump's timing can be advanced also, which brings on the injection event earlier in the stroke. Result is much like advancing ignition timing on a gasser and with the same limitations, just a little does wonders, like 1/16" to 1/8" for good power and economy. Look at where the pump mounts to timing case on driver side and you'll see three bolts. One requires a wrench bent in an 'S' to access. Loosening these and using something to pry pump towards block is the trick. You'll see a hash mark on timing gear case and one on pump. Because yours has been upgraded they may not currently line up. Regardless, you advance in reference to this, as in 1/16" increase, 1/8" etc. Just a smidgeon as 1/16" can make a large difference. Don't go too far all at once.

Diesels want MORE FUEL. More fuel causes increases in EGT's [Exhaust Gas Temperature] which kills you for towing. One of the most important things of all to do is install a pyrometer of good quality to monitor EGT's when towing or running it hard up against the governor. The increase in fuel causes increased EGT's but increase in turbo boost/volume pulls it back down. I look at it as a cup of coffee: add more fuel [coffee] = hotter, blowing on it cools it off! There are much more efficient compressor and turbo housings you can install. HTT Stage III or Stage IV with the right sized housings give good results. Also the Holset HX35 or HX40 turbos may be used in lieu of the HW1C that you probably now have for a great improvement in turbo output and effect. This improves power and controls EGT's better.

Water/meth injection is a viable option. It injects metered amounts of water and methanol through sparay nozzle[s] into intake mixture after the turbo outlet. Back to the cup of coffee, adding cold water cools it off, adding methanol warms it up same as more coffee fuel. Meth increases cetane rating which makes up for the water quenching the combustion chamber fire. Nice thing is you can increase power with methanol and still keep up with cooling via the water and gain an overall decrease of several hundred degrees cooler EGT's. 50/50 mix is common, or 60/40 water to methanol. This allows you to turn up the fuel screw at aneroid and use a modified fuel plate for increased power without melting pistons and scattering parts all over the landscape.

Dodge/Cummins attempted to address issues with the diesel's torque-devouring stock A-518 and A-618 T/Q's. The improved one is just that but regardless it would be good to put in something even tougher to handle the applied torque when towing. Several shops have heavy duty torque converters.

Just a little fiddling and twisting, tweaking stock stuff can help a lot and the only limit on major upgrade$ is $$$ ha haha

[JimmieD]

Forgot something IMPORTANT, Reg: the infamous Killer Dowel Pin. On the front of the engine sits the timing gear case. Removing the belts, pulleys, tensioner and cover [loosen pulley bolts before removing belt tensioner or belt] reveals the timing gear. Looking straight on at about 10 o'clock on left of upper section you will see a dowel pin just to the upper left of a 10 mm screw. This is close to the base of the vee made by upper edges of timing cover. The 10mm screw may be used as the hold down for a tab to prevent this dowel pin from falling out and into timing gears! I have a picture I can process and post of my dowel pin repair.

There are several bolts that retain timing gear case and oil pump to engine block. I was doing the KDP repair and thought of a caution I'd heard regarding the bolts that hold the case and pump to engine block. Sure enough when I checked the bolts 1 was less than finger tight, 2 were too loose and 4 at oil pump were okay but not tightly torqued. So, remove all, clean bolts and holes with carb cleaner, Loctite and then properly torque.

These are a major disaster waiting to happen!

[rcts]

I will do the bolt checks when I do the engine service stuff next week, if you find the pictures you can email them to my shop email address.

rcts@shaw.ca

Thanks JimmieD

Reg

[rcts]

FYI

I have updated the pictures site with more photos, when we start putting it together it will all be at this link. I have also added links to your great site as well guys.

http://web.mac.com/rctscanadainc/iWeb/75_D200_cummins%20swap/1975_Dodge_Cummins.html

I'm hoping that our shop will catch up around Christmas time and we can get the wrenching started.

Thanks for all you help guys.

Reg

[Mike Mc]

rcts, here is a link on the KDP. http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Dowel_Pin/tab.htmI checked the pin on my '93 and it was tight. I tried to get it to move but it was stuck. So I put the cover back on and left it alone.I would also take this opportunity to change the front and rear main seal. The rear seal is known to spin in the housing. My rear seal was loose.The Cummins makes plenty of power. So just leave her alone if you want the best economy. When ever a hope up kit is installed, I seem to get worse mileage. Because when you got more truck tearing up torque you seem to use it more. Also if you just use 1/4 throttle for your daily driving. Now you'll be dumping more fuel in at 1/4 then before.Good luck and looking forward to seeing some installation picks.

[rcts]

Thanks Mike, Yes I will check the pin when we have the front out of the truck. I intended to leave it stock as I do want the fuel economy, this is the reason for the swap in the first place, along with the cool factor of having a Cummins powered old dodge truck. What kink of engine puller lift do you guys use for these Cummins engines, mine will not do it at our auto engines shop. I have a heavy sky hook boom off my buildings steel rafters, this was installed back in the 60's when Canadian Pacific Railway owned my building, but I don’t know if I trust the boom at this weight.

That said. As of today, I'm thinking that the only way the nice stock 92 rad is going to fit under my 75 hood line is if I lift the body 2". So this said if I'm going to have to lift the body anyway I may as well just drop the 75 body on my 92 frame and be done with it, I would like to keep the classic frame but I don't want to move the engine trans and diff as well as undo all the body mounts. The frame swap is looking better all the time. This is not in stone yet but its looking better all the time. The thought of lifting that Cummins and auto trans is not something I want to think about either.

When the cab and box are off the 92 I could have the rusty stuff sand blasted and then paint it up again.

All I have to do then is pull the wiring out of the 92 to dissect out the the engine circuts and build an ad in sub harness, for the 75, for the ECU, temp sensors for glow heaters, auto trans lockup control button ecu integration. I want to keep the Cummins control panel in the truck, it works well and the truck starts and runs nicely, the circuits are simple and easy to move over. That is sort of what out shop specilizis in anyway, we do digital injection on gas race engines and street engines. The Cummins engine harness is small compared to these other systems we work with every day.

I want to mount the Cummins engine control light panel in the original 75 Dash, where the taco option used to be installed beside the radio.

What do you think about the frame swap, keep the classic or go with the 92, I would also have to rebuild the front end the steering box has some dead play, my 75 is tight like new, too bad.

Thanks for listening to my ranting and raving

Reg

[Mike Mc]

No matter which way you go it's going to be tough!!!!

The problem with putting the older cabs on newer frames is the fire wall and fender wells. Tough to line up fender wells correctly. The old fire walls are not recessed back to allow room for the long Cummins. But either way my fire wall has to be modified.

If every thing is tight one the 75. I would stick with the original plan.

Wise man once said "the pain and suffering is quickly forgot when you rep the benefits of a quality product into the future."

Good luck and hurry so I can C how U did it!!!

[rcts]

Hello again, I don't see what your explaining with the fire wall, mine looks exactly like the 92 I have measured it all up and its the same, what am I missing in what you are telling me about the fire wall and fenders. Is the frame not the same in the front.

I have taken all the mesusurements, maybe in the 4x4 models something else is different, mine are both 2wd automatics.

Are you talking about clearance for the manual trans clearance?

Let me know if you have time.

Thanks in advance.

Reg

[rcts]

Thanks Mike, You do know that my CTD truck is 92, and my old one is a 75, I'm not doing a Sweptline like you?

I went out to the trucks in the shop tonight, I don't see the firewall issue but I take your word for it, However, I can see that the inner fenders don't look like the exact same curves, both use rubber splash boot to connect to the frame line. I had thought the body mounts would just line up as others have told me they would but I have swiched directions again, back to my original plan of putting the 92 driveline in the mint 75 frame and body. I will build a new rad and be done with it the right way.

If I have to tig in some supports for the frame I will do this, that said the truck is not an off road rig, its going to get highway only.

Thanks again.

Reg

[Mike Mc]

Rcts, sorry I didn't explain it better, but does the 75 and 92 have the same wheel base so the fenders will line up? They look to be the same in the pictures.

What is the measurement on the 75 and 92 from rad. support to firewall?

Does the 92 have the AC condenser and inter cooler in front of the radiator support or in the engine compartment?

[MoparNorm]

Does the '92 have an intercooler?
MN

[rcts]

I'm still leaning toward using the nice 75 frame now. MoparNorm said this is what he would do. Thanks Norm!

The wheel base is the same and the only thing I can see thats not the same is the distance from the fenders hoodline ridge to the inner part of the inner fender tin where the rubber splash gaurd attaches, this is 1" different, but about 8" of rubber is used to attached the liners inner edge to the frame, just as in the 75, I thought it would be a cake walk.

The 92 has intercoler, there is lots of room for this under the rad support, I made templates for this already.

Also the distance to the driveline hump is the exact same, this is why I was confused that the body would not fit the frame.

If you need the exact dimensions I have them at work. I think 42" was what was from the back of the support to the lower edge of the firewall.

Thanks guys.

Reg

[Mike Mc]

If every thing is tight one the 75. I would stick with the original plan.


After re-examining the pictures. I'm stunned Dodge didn't make any changes for so many years. No wonder sales dropped.

I also see what your saying about the cooler being in the center of the radiator support.

This is what I measured
5.9 34" adding little extra so debris doesn't build up between the firewall.
electric fans 4"
radiator 3"
cooler 3"
condenser 2"

I came up with 46". I tried to be generous on my measurements. Realizing there is always a problem...... You will save a little by not having the condenser.

Good Luck and keep posting!!!!

[rcts]

Thanks for all the help. Have a look at my site, more pictures of the under hoods on both trucks with tape measure and more.

Cheers for now

Reg

[rcts]

Does the '92 have an intercooler?
MN


Yes, its intercooled, small intercooler under rad support, where nothing else lives in the 75, all should bolt right up more or less, the cummins rad will not fit under stock 75 hood and frame, so I can use the 92 rad support and mod a rad for this support or just build my own rad and IC for the stock 75 rad support, then head light buckets will be right with no mod's, or mix mathing of rad support hood line will fit, wide low thick rad rather than, high narrow thin rad.

Thanks for all your help MoparNorm.

Reg Riemer
of
www.monsterhorsepower.com

[JimmieD]

I just re-installed the radiator on my '67 Town Wagon for the engine swap. Had forgotten I swapped radiators years ago. When I swapped I decided to cut down the mounting wings on the radiator so that it fit 3" farther forward in front of the radiator support factory brackets. You only need about 1" of bracketry on each side to mount when using some of those self tapping hex screws, about 6 per side. Too cold and dark to go out and look at my '90 Ram right now, but you might be able to do something similar?

Other than being something to mount the grill, lights and fenders to the radiator support can be modified to any desired configuration. Just saying a hot saw and a MIG can do wonders for clearance problems...

[rcts]

I will look at this closer but I think its custom rad for me!

Reg

[rcts]

Well I was wrong the rad does indeed fit under the stock 1975 hood and rad support, as does the shroud. I have updated the site with a bunch of new info for any that are interested in the swap.

Reg

[rcts]

Hello all.

News!! due to weather and a sudden customer cancel, my cummins project is top of the list! Tomorrow the project starts, we are pulling the CTD driveline in the morning, right after a quick last Dyno pull in the 92. I will post dyno movies and pic's tomorrow night to my 75 D200 Club Cab 2wd Cummins swap web site.

We are moving all the Cummins warning light panel, od lock out, cruise, into the 75 dash right where the optional tach went in the 75. As for the interiors the 75 has the much higher quality interior, my 75 is an Adventure SE and has all the stainless steel trims, head liner, side panels, nice quality door panels with stainless and wood trim, very classic and classy. The 92 feels like plastic junk inside, the door panels and dash are one piece hard plastic, floor is the oil patch style rubber, etc. Not even in the same class as the Adventure SE. I will post pictures. In fact the sound and feel of the doors closing and the entire truck is much nicer than the 92, maybe a more loaded up 92 would be better but the plastic is too much in this one.

Cheers for now.

thanks for all you input.

Reg
8)

[MoparNorm]

Great!
Take plenty of photos and keep us posted.
MN

[rcts]

News!!

The 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab 2wd Cummins swap web site is updated! Dyno run movies, swap has started pictures and tear down link;

The swap project has started. Today Warren used his 1991 Toyota 4Runner to tow our frozen solid non starting 1 Gen 1992 D250 into the RCTS shop. After lunch at the Dragon Pearl restaurant we arrived back at the shop to start up our now thawed out 1992 D250 Dodge Cummins truck. This next runs on the RCTS Dynojet will be the last miles for the 92 truck with a diesel engine!

slideshow movies and dyno runs up at;

http://web.mac.com/rctscanadainc/

Amazingly the 1992 CTD made more than her rated power at the rear wheels. More amazing an hour later when we took the intake pipe is off and found her turbo wheel is very hard to turn. Any one with feedback on how the 1 generation 12 valve cummins turbo spins is invited to let us know. This does not seem right to me? Watch the video below and let me know what you think.

In any case fantastic power. As we looked at the 1gen 92 on the lift the extent of the rust is very apparent. Poor old truck. I think we will put the 75 360 auto and Dana 60 back into this 92 so she can be our shops dirt truck.

Reg

[JimmieD]

Could be the prior owner coked the bearings in the turbo. Far as I know it should spine freely and have virtually no end play on shaft. Just get a HTT Stage IV and be done with it ha haha! You being a fellow hotrodder will no doubt want to extract all the power you can out of it and a turbo upgrade is a very good move, as you know... Is that a Holset H1C, HY35 or HX35? Wastegated? I'm thinking a '92 still uses an H1CW-G. They're okay for a bone stocker, or a 4BT, but rather limited huffing up a strong 6BT. If you're not towing then an HTT Stage IV with a 12cm exhaust housing might be the ticket.

[rcts]

Hello again, my 12 has no waste gate it just makes what it makes for boost, when you guys upgrade these do you add a wastegate well.
Yes I think its hooped as well, it's working fine as you can see on the dyno graph but it must be taking for ever to spool up. end play is nill, the hp and torque is on the money, but the turbo is too tight. Would you buy a turbo from?

I don't want to make a racer out of this truck, BUT I don't want to just rebuild whats there if I can get a better new turbo. Also I don't want to mess up my economy.

Who would you buy pump and injectors from? I don't want home made junk, but nice new parts that work.

What to do to get a nice clean tune, no extra smoke, is there a shop that sells a complete kit that is properly tuned? when you bolt it on. This is how we do our car stuff, we build and sell completely setup systems so the customer can bolt it all together and have a properly setup system.


One of the other forum guys recomended this shop;

>Dave
>High Tech Turbo
>801 304 0700

Thanks

[JimmieD]

Yes, I bought my turbo upgrade from HTT, High Tech Turbo. Very good products, good support and reasonable prices; does it get any better than that? I can check on injectors for you.

Will you be towing? As I understand it you want a strong street truck, a driver, not a full-blown hotrod? Can be done very easily, and suprisingly, very cheaply. Just a turbo upgrade, tweaking the injection pump, and bumping the pump timing will make a HUGE difference. mostly free except for turbo, and they're pretty cheap through HTT.

[rcts]

More movies & pictures up at the 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab Cummins Swap site!. Cummins removed, tomorrow fuel cell and wiring harness’s. We are putting the 1975 360 2B back into the 92 Dodge X-CTD. Its -29C outside. I don't want to open the shop doors tomorrow for the 75 but we have to!

http://web.mac.com/rctscanadainc/iWeb/


Reg

P.s.
Updates will be daily now till compleation, if your interested have a look each day, we will keep on it now until we are under CTD power in the 75.

[rcts]

And its comming along;

Have a look at the site day 4 is up now,

http://web.mac.com/rctscanadainc/

Project is going better than expected, these are great vehicles! 75 frame is strong enought to ram a ship!!

Reg

[rcts]

The Cummins installed in the 75 D200 Club Cab 2WD!

Day 5 is up at the 75 D200 Cummins swap site

http://web.mac.com/rctscanadainc/iWeb

Reg

[rcts]

Well it took 10 days and we are finished the project. Only thing left is to put the grill back in when I get my new bosch headlights tomorrow.

http://web.mac.com/rctscanadainc/iWeb/75_D200_cummins%20swap/Day_10_Project_Finished.html

All the cummins electrical systems we moved from the 92 CTD single board ecu are working perfectly; Grid heaters, water in fuel warning, wait to start warning, check engine, charging system, cruise control, lockout and temp safety system for over drive. Dana 70 and drive shaft are installed. Extra fuel tanks are working, the great transfer pump I purchased pumps 4 liters per minute from the side tanks through the floor tank select valve to the main tank.

Tomorrow we fit the new head light bulbs, grill and exhaust system. Test drive tomorrow!

Reg Riemer

[rcts]

With no camper or trailer loads on my 1975 D200 Club Cab Cummins swap truck, boost is 18 psi when under throttle in high gears, I've noticed that boost falls off as rev's build in gears, then boost comes back up again after shifts

Normal?

I Just have the pyro and boost hooked up today. Cruise on steep hills sees 600 F.
Its still balmy warm in Calgary, no need to plug in, mornings are -14C wait to start is 15 to 20 seconds, then it goes. I'm running 15-40, too thick for my liking, cranking is slow but she still starts fine. Second stage grid heaters kick in and burry the stock 75 amp meter on dash. After about 6 kick in and out she stops kicking in and you are still just driving along

Dodge should have had the 75 with this engine and they would have been even further ahead of the pack. Amazing power smoothness and economy. NO SMOKE!

Putting camper back on tomorrow!

Reg

[JimmieD]

Congrats, Reg, Looks good! Record breaking time for the swap!!

[rcts]

Over the Christmas break I drove my 1975 D200 Club Cab Cummins power from Calgary down to Salt Lake Vegas, LA, then back up the PCH #1 and 101 to see friends and family who live along the way. The cummins is amazing in the steep mountain grades as making as much as 20 psi boost on cruise control. Fuel economy ran between 18 and 22 on the US Gallon. No problems with the truck at all. The tune is perfect, no smoke at all and my 0-40 Mobile 1 oil did not discolor at all it’s still clean now and I’m home again. In Portland I met up for coffee with Farmer_01 Doug from the Diesel Truck Resource Forum.

As well on the road I ran into Desperado of the NW Bombers forum at a Flying J fuel station. Desperado noticed my truck and said, “Hay are you a Member of the North West Bombers Forum, are you from Canada, you guys just built that Cummins 75 I was following it on the forum”

Thanks for all your help guys.

Link to road trip pic's is up at;

http://web.mac.com/rctscanadainc/iWeb/75_D200_cummins%20swap/Finished_1st_Road_Trip.html

Reg

:dance:

[JimmieD]

Welcome back, Reg! I've experienced some major delays, ridiculous really, so my maiden voyage road trip is still in the wings. Glad yours was a success and that you got to talk shop with other wackos, I mean Dodge/Cummins diesel lovers! Surprised Farmer01 didn't get under there with you two tweaking the fuel screw and hacking the AFC ha haha!

[rcts]

Welcome back, Reg! I've experienced some major delays, ridiculous really, so my maiden voyage road trip is still in the wings. Glad yours was a success and that you got to talk shop with other wackos, I mean Dodge/Cummins diesel lovers! Surprised Farmer01 didn't get under there with you two tweaking the fuel screw and hacking the AFC ha haha!

Thanks bud, I'm sorry to here you have delays. Call me sometime so we can talk. Farmer is a cool guy! I had a great road trip but its nice to be back.

Talk to you soon.

Reg

[michigandon]

That's a great project. Your site reeled me in because the donor truck you used in your repower is the same color and style as the one I used in mine! Here it is:

http://groups.msn.com/michigandonstravco

[rcts]

Sorry, you link does not show me your project Dodge, please send me a new link.

Reg

[Hawk]

That's a great project. Your site reeled me in because the donor truck you used in your repower is the same color and style as the one I used in mine! Here it is:

http://groups.msn.com/michigandonstravco

WOW that 413 looks like it was sitting in water.

Nice Diesel swap

[Hawk]

Sorry, you link does not show me your project Dodge, please send me a new link.

Reg

on the left of the page click photos then you will find them

[rcts]

Hawk, that is one nice old dodge motor home cummins swap, what a cool rig! How long have you owned this and how long have you had the cummins, as you and I know its fantastic to have the cummins vers the Gas V8 guzzler.

Nice job, if you have more pictures of your rig send them to me or post them on my 75 D200 cummins site.

Reg

[rcts]

75 D200 Club Cab Cummins Swap is in this months Diesel World Magazine.

The article is on the news stands as the September issue of Diesel World Magazine.

Pick it up and let me know what you guys think.

10 Day wonder!

Reg

[JimmieD]

Hi ya, Reg! That mag isn't seen around these parts but maybe I can buy it on the net from the website. That would be a 'Must Have' article :~ )

[farmer0_1]

here's a photo i took at the mickey d's we stopped for coffee at. got a ride around town in that very ride. just thought you might want to see the owner operater of this fine ride.

[rcts]

Jimmie_D I know its a bit hard to find the magazine, its the September Issue! Only some of the stores have it, most big news paper magazine stands have it.

Farmer, I'm going to come south again your way in the fall, going down to my sisters place in Newport Beach.

See you then.

Reg

[farmer0_1]

reg make sure and pull a trailer full of shop goodies down here while you are on vacation i got a lot of work lined up for you! hate to let talent go to waste. i have been doing alot of that tape measure work and head scratching before tearing into my swap. my wife made me promise that i wouldn't work you (to hard) if you stopped by. your allways welcome.

[59Cummins]

Hi- Great project and great documentation. I'm starting out on a Cummins conversions, into a 1959 D100. I'm attempting to transplant an entire 2002 Ram 2500 chassis, including Cummins engine under the '59 sheet metal. Definately not progressing as fast as you did, but have made some significant recent progress including cab and front fender mounting, firewall mod, etc. I also started a website to document the project, and like the project, the site is a work in progress, under construction; but check it out:

http://members.cox.net/power.giant.madness/

Issues I've run into include lack of space in the engine bay, wheelbase length, etc. Working on replacing the stock intercooler with a liquid-air intercooler from Spearco. Far out of my league there, any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[acudanut]

Any u-tube flicks to see and listen to this amazing engine swap ?
I would love to do this to my 73 D200 Camper special. My truck has been recompletly restored, but I am not happy about getting 5 MPG in it. I have to fill up every 90 miles.

[PapeCAT]

I don't seem to see any pics left on your build site.